Gage & Tollner

In just a few years, Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya’s Indian restaurants Semma and Dhamaka have become icons of the Manhattan dining scene. Their latest project in Brooklyn explores India through the eyes of Mazumdar’s father, who moved to the US from Kolkata. His birth city in West Bengal sits close to the coast, so expect lots of fish and seafood dishes like daab chingir – tiger prawns cooked in a young coconut shell that’s decanted tableside – and the biyebarir fish fry that’s a staple of Kolkata weddings. Set in a former bakery, tables go quickly at this tightly packed restaurant, which is decked out with colourful garlands and wall murals.\nmasalawala.com